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1 |
Remove the cover from the rear storage compartment using the ignition key. |
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2 |
Remove the seat by pulling the red lever, then lift up on the rear of
the seat and pull back to release. |
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3 |
Remove the front turn signals. Remove the 4 (Torx 25) screws securing
the turn signals to the faring. Pull the light assembly away to expose the
electrical connector. |
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4 |
Squeeze the sides of the connector to release it and pull to disconnect.
Do not damage the wires from the turn signal, we will be reusing these.
Follow the same steps to remove the other turn signal. |
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5 |
Remove the forward side covers. Remove the first screw from
under the forward edge of the cover. (Torx 25) |
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6 |
Remove the two screws that secure the top of the cover. (Torx 25) |
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7 |
On the left side, remove the oil cap. Pull outward on the lower forward
edge of the cover. |
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8 |
Now lift upward along the top edge where the side cover snaps together
with the center cover. |
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9 |
Remove the central cover. There are two screws at the forward edge of
the cover. Save the screws, but the two sheet metal nuts (2) are not re-used. |
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10 |
Remove the battery cables from the battery using either 2) 10mm open end
wrenches, or a wrench and a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the battery vent
hose, disconnect the strap and lift the battery from the tray. Always keep
the battery level. NOTE: Battery acid is corrosive and is hazardous to your
health!! |
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11 |
Remove the four bolts that secure the front fender from below. It will
be spaced downward 6mm to clear the tanks. It will be re-installed at
the end, step 36.
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12 |
Remove the two electrical connectors from the fuel pump. Loosen the screw
type clamp on the fuel line. Cut the band clamp from the second fuel line.
A new screw-type clamp is included to replace the clamp that was cut. |
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13 |
CAREFULLY disconnect the fuel lines. There may still be pressure in the
fuel lines that will cause them to leak some fuel. Plug the fuel lines to
prevent any contamination from getting into them. |
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14 |
Pull up on the gas tank vent hose until it is free from the framework.
This tube from the charcoal cannister (white arrow) vents the stock tank
(into the existing charcoal cannister). Because the new forward tanks
are much higher, the charcoal cannister must connected to the new forward
tanks. (see photo on step 30)
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15 |
Please see "Alternate method".
If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.
Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir from the right side of the rear framework.
(10mm wrench)
Support the reservoir on the hose such that it does not turn upside down
otherwise you may have to bleed air from the rear brake.
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16 |
Please see "Alternate method".
If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.
Remove the 2 screws holding the top edge of each of the rear side covers.
(Torx 27)
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17 |
Please see "Alternate method".
If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.
Remove the small plastic cover to expose the final bolt on each side.
Look at it from the backside and you can see the plastic fingers that
secure the cap. Carefully squeeze them to release the cap.
Remove the bolt (6mm Allen head) now remove the two side covers. The
right side may need to be worked out from around the gas tank filler.
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18 |
Please see "Alternate method".
If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.
Remove the mufflers:
On the right side remove the bolt (Torx 30) and carefully pry outward
to release the muffler. If necessary a light tap with a rubber mallet
from the inside will release the muffler. On the left side loosen the
clamp that connects the muffler to the exhaust pipe and work it back from
the pipe.
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19 |
Please see "Alternate method".
If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.
Remove the rear frame triangle:
Take out the 4 bolts that secure the rear frame triangle to the main
frame. (Torx 40)
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