Please see "Alternate method". If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.

To remove the tank, unscrew these two special screws and remove the original BMW fuel tank.

For the USA model GS, the fuel connection is on the right side at the lowest point just above the chain.

For European model GS, the fuel connection to the stock tank is on the left hand side at the lowest point.

A drilling template is included. The template is an adhesive sticker and is applied directly to the tank. The shape of the fittings and the hole locations are clearly marked on the template to assist in choosing proper location to accomodate the fitting.

For more information please see parts photo#1 and parts photo#2

Please see "Alternate method". If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.

Start with the two smaller holes; pre-drill with 2.5mm (3/32") first and then drill to 6.0mm (7/32"). Then lay the metal part (outer fitting part) on the tank and drill the second outer hole. This one you should drill with 6.0mm (15/64") directly. Temporarily snug the tank hose connection with both screws then drill the inner hole with 10.5mm (13/32"). Now you'll have to remove all parts and drill the inner hole up to 12.0mm (15/32"). Please deburr all the holes and clean plastic chips from the inside of the tank.

Mount the two connection plates: On inside and outside of the tank there is a "VITON"  flat seal of the same shape as the connection plates. Use the two countersink screws M6x20 on the outside plate. On the inside of the tank please use the two soft metal sealing rings (M6) and the cap nuts and use Loctite 273 or similar. Torque the two M6 screws to 6 Nm (=55 in-lbs). Screw the banjo bolt into the tank and back out again to dislodge any loose chips. Remove any chips and confirm again that the tank is clean.

Re-mount the tank in the rear frame and re-mount the frame onto the motorcycle. But insert only the two upper screws (but not tight), so you still can rotate the rear frame upward a bit. Now you should connect the fuel hoses. The final connection will be made with the banjo bolt again, but this time you'll have to use on each side a soft metal sealing ring (M12). Torque the banjo bolt to 20 Nm (=180 in-lbs). To choose routing for the hoses, refer to the photos below. (these photos are for the German F650GS with no charcoal cannister). For USA model click here.

Please see "Alternate method". If you elect to drill the tank in-place, skip steps 15-22.

After the connection of the fuel hoses, finish the mounting of the rear frame assembly:

(1) Torque this bolt to 21 Nm (=180 in-lbs).
(2) Torque also 21 Nm but use even Loctite 2701 (by recommendation from BMW)

Front tank support.

Please substitute the two original screws of this part and mount the two holders as shown on the picture with 2X M6x25 and the original washers. The new bracket is placed on the outside of the frame, everything else remains as original.

Install the forward tank mounts.

Unscrew the two screws from the electronic box and removethe the two upper engine mount bolts.

Place the tank mounts with the round tube into the rubber grommet in the radiator support, and the top slid over the frame with the slot cutout between the frame and the rubber spacer on the upper radiator support. The upper mounts are secured with an M6x35 bolt (5mm hex) and a large washer. On the two lower bolts through tank mounts and the engine mount use the two M8x70 bolts, 8 washers and 2 lock nuts. The washers are placed in-between the tank mounts and the motor mount as well as on the outside of the tank mounts. (total of 8 washers)

TIP: Grease the tube where it fits inside the rubber bushings.

The tank mount crossbar is installed from the left side so that all the wires are situated behind it. the crossbar is then bolted to the tank mounts on each side using an M6x20 bolt (5mm hex) two washers and a locknut. Once the crossbar is installed and you have checked for proper clearance while steering both directions, the wires can all be secured with cable ties.

NOTE: There will be some tension on the crossbar, so that the fuel tanks cannot move to the outside.

The reserve pickup tube should be removed from the new fuel petcocks. To remove the reserve tube the filter should be unscrewed, the plastic tube removed and the filter screwed back in place. The o-ring seal should be slid onto the petcock over the filter, and the petcock installed into the tank using two M6x16 button heads. The petcocks should be installed onto both the left and right fuel tanks. You will notice that there are different right and left side petcocks. Once all the tanks are installed, check that all fittings are tight.

The hole to the right of the petcock (in the photo is the drain from around the fuel filler cap well.

At the top of the left side tank, install two brass fittings with a gasket for the vent hose connections. Connect the rearward vent to the main tank vent. The other goes across the motorcycle to the "Y" in step 30.

There is no difference between these front and rear vents on the left tank.

The self-adhesive foam tape is installed on the bottom of the tank cover.

On the right fuel tank the vent hose gets installed with the banjo bolt. Verify that the threads operate freely (no paint!) before tigntening the banjo bolt connection.

(1) this end connects to one of the brass fittings on the left tank (photo 29).

(2) this end goes to the charcoal cannister to restore pollution controls. If the charcoal cannister is removed, then route this line up to the front of the bike for a vent.

The LAST vent tube (after the "Y") should have a path that takes it higher than the highest fuel level possible -for example when the motorcycle is in the sidestand. It is then routed to the charcoal cannister solenoid to restore emissions controls.

Note that the motorcycle now has 3 fuel tanks and 3 fuel caps. The original fuel filler is BELOW the new fuel level. Care must be taken when opening fuel caps that are below the fuel level, as fuel may spill out. Manage your fuel. The original filler is always below the new full level, and when the bike is on the sidestand, the left tank filler may be below the fuel level. It's best not to top the tanks unless you plan to ride the motorcycle immediately. If you must park the motorcycle with 3 tanks full, stand the motorcycle level, as with a centerstand.

The lower tank supports must be pressed right on the tank and then tightened.

Mounting Fairing side parts:

The mounting areas on the fibreglas fairing side parts are oversized. Trim/adjust to fit using the two lower blinker support screws. See photo for an example of what was trimmed on one installation (trim shown in red).

The  self-adhesive foam tape gets installed on these parts as well. These parts are getting mounted similar to the original parts. At the crossover to the tank cover there comes that rubber profile mounted.

Re-install front fender:

Place the four 6mm spacers on top of the fender. Using the longer M6X20mm hex screws, re-install the fender.

The front fender is spaced 6mm downward to clear the tanks.

The new seat gets mounted as the original. Remove the two rubber grommets from the original seat and install into the new seat.

You'll have to mount a little bracket on the front. This part you can move in its height. So it should fit right under the metal part which held the Airbox, then you will have to set it to the correct height.